Conservatkn ResouTOw CoDMrvitioii Rooarctt Norwegian Drawn Work Shirtwaist Edition ILLUSTRATED Price, 25 cts. I (^rJiattgnO •' • •••«.. /a Gittcrtyl Filet :By: Anna M. Porter COPYRIGHTED Bv Anna M. Porter LIBRARY of CONGStSS Two Copies Heceiveu MAR 9 1905 OopMigni tnlry CLASS a XXc. Noi ''• — ' - jl Norwegian Drawn Work A (llarbangrr) A O ^ SHIRTWAIST EDITION ALL ILLUSTRATIONS COPYRIGHTED The Norwegian drawn work which is called (Hardanger) has a large circle of friends in America and is not entirely new. Ages ago in Persia the ladies worked on fine and rare materi- als, with silk, these beautiful embroideries. To our grand- mothers, also, this was not a new work, but it did not have the pronounced character of to- day, and in connection with other drawn work it was varied with curved damask-like stitches, and was known in Italy as Punto-Tagliato and Punto-Rialto. «.\ The present work was first executed in Norway, a county on the southeast coast, hence the name. As curved lines are excluded from the technic only articles appropriate for Norwe- gian draw work (Hardanger) are chosen, such as curtains, bed-spreads, sofa pillows, cen- ter pieces, doilies, shirtwaists, collars, etc. ffj Norwegian Drawn Work Materials The cloth used for this work must be square woven, the threads of equal size either way, immaterial if coarser or finer, a material whose threads are easily drawn. We recommend the Hardanger linen, a strong weave with a dull finish, which is manufactured single or double thread, also single or double width. In the new weaves this linen is made in strips from two to five inches wide to accommodate different patterns and is especially suitable for the new shirt- waist sets so much in vogue at the present time. 1. Outlining or Flat Stitch 2. Darning Stitch 3. Filling-in Stitch In the cotton goods the Sultan or Norwegian cloth, the Aida, the Camilla or Congress cloth, sometimes called scrim, and the Java cloth are used for table-covers, center pieces, sofa ])illows, etc. The Cordova or Marly cloth is especially suitable for curtains or bed-spreads. Norweoiaii Drawn Work Shirtwaists and Shirtwaist Suits Original Designs by Anna M. Porter l^he most popular of all embroideries at the present time is Nor- wegian drawn work, (Hardanger), a work which is growing in favor and for the next few years and will be used extensively in our country for shirtwaist suits and dress trim- mings. If the worker is careful in laying out her pattern by actual count, not making mis- takes in the Kloster or flat stitches she will find no trouble in cut- ting her threads. The filling in stitches are easy and should be made to conform to the pattern used. The simpler stitches well made give a character to the work you can- not get by using a great variety of stitches. The trouble with many of our American women is using too many stitches on one piece, making of it a sampler instead of a handsome piece of work. ■.I\ Norwegian Drawn Work All goods used for this work should be laundried before mak- ing up. After working the Kloster or flat stitch we wash and press the pieces, then .work the filling stitches. ) The star design and other stitches used in Norwegian drawn work (Hardanger) are so plainly illustrated in the many center pieces given in this book we have no extra samplers of them. We give a space of several pages to shirt- waist and shirtwaist suit designs. Enlarged pattern of this design is given on page 28. Norwegian Drawn Work Stitches and TTieir Use Norweg-ian drawn work ( Hardangcr) uses few and simple stitches only. Principally the flat stitch and the darning stitcJi ornamented with Picots, Loops, Scallops, etc. The flat stitch (Cut No. i) runs always in the direction of the threads of the material horizontally or vertically and, with- out exception, is worked in groups. This stitch is always worked first and outlines the design. 4. Buttonhole Stitch The darning stitch (Cut No. 2) is worked over the uncut threads left around the open spaces. In some designs a fancy stitch is worked in connection with the darning stitch as shown in Cut No. 3. This same stitch is used in Cut No. 8 ui connection with the picot. The Norwegian work is often finished with a hemstitched edge, but for those who prefer a worked edge Cut No. 4 shows an open scallop which is showy and pretty, but we recommend the close scallop as more serviceable. The foundation of Norwegian drawn work is a square. It may contain more or less threads, usually four each way. Each closed square has as many threads as the open space. In Cut No. I you see it takes fi\e stitches to cover four threads. This shows that one more stitch is necessary than the threads counted in each square. When a design is chosen the number of threads at ih.'i widest point are counted and must tally with the number ci threads in the piece of material used. 6 Norwegian Drawn Work Embroidery THreads For the above named weaves the new strong mercerized thread, which comes in different sizes, is considered best and is highly recommended for washable pieces, as it retains its silky lustre, which makes it one of the most desirable threads in use. The Aurora or flat thread and the French embroidery cot- ton called Floche are much in demand and sometimes silk is used. Needles for this work must have a dull point. Scissors should be sharp with good points, as the threads must be cut close to the embroidery. A fine crochet hook to draw the threads is convenient and for large pieces an embroidery frame is necessary. Lace Edge for Side Board Cover. This design shows the simple combination of flat stitch, illustration i. with trellis bar or darning stitch, illustration 2, and works very rapidly. The material for this lace must be wider than pattern which counts 60 threads. The small open beading above the lace is worked with double back stitch. » o\ '■• .if*" la, i Norwegian Drawn Work This shirtwaist worked on hnen Etamine needs little de- scription. The usual Kloster or flat stitch worked over four threads is the foundation of the star. Norwegian Drawn Work The above design is plainiy illustrated on page 13 and is worked on linen bands y/2 inches wide. Buttons to match. The collar is worked on a bias strip of linen. These designs can be enlarged with a magnifying glass. Norwegian Drawn Work Box Plait Designs for Section of edge see (a and b) commence with straight band. 21 stitches over 4 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. 21 stitches over 4 threads. 13 stitches over 6 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. 13 stitches over 6 threads. 88 threads is actual count of width of these designs. Open square in upper design counts 28 threads. Whole design covers 44 threads. Shirtwaists with Cuffs Section of edge see (c) com- mence with straight band. 17 stitches over 4 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. 13 stitches over 6 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. 7 stitches over 6 threads. Open square in lower design counts 16 threads. These pat- terns need little description if edges are true to count. A mag- nifying glass will help in these designs. 12 Norwegian Drawn Work These four centerpieces are worked on fine Camilla cloth, sometimes called scrim, and measures about 20 inches square. The designs can be enlarged by adding sections and are pretty for tea cloths and side board covers. ■ :•:• i'« a::« ■•*■ -Si ■:•:• ■::■ ■ J^/SSi ,31!, 19^ Kif J - fas !is, l&J'SQL i9Bi si» «ia Kiif Ktf , <»5i ifit si^ US r4S u^ r4S ;:•! .-^'"■■li ■•■ ■ ■■■ ■■'•'■'^'■a '•■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■•■■■■ f' <■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ fJ-^-mm^m ■■■ ■■■■« ■■■ ■■■■■ (a.aaaa ■ aaa ■ laa ':...■■■■ Baaaa ■■■■■ > p- ■■■■ ■■■■bmb ■■■■aa» !!':■■■■ ' ■■aaa ■■■a*' paasM ■ aaa ■ aaa l.aaaa •■« saaaa ■■■ aaaaa '=. ■aaaaaaaaaaaaaBBaaaaaaaa /-.'aaaaaaaaaaaa aaa aaa ■ aa ;~ aaaaaaaaaa • ■ a _,!^.'aaaa aaa eag pa;aBaa ■ aaa t^aaaa aaa ;i.- aaaa aaa J. aaaa aaa fbjiaaa a aaa ^ aaaaaaaaaa i^aaaaaaaaaaaa T- aaaaaaaaaa _r aaaa aaa aaa f^aaaa « aai <4 inches. Norwegian Drawn Work 13 •••at v mmmm ■■« . . . ■■■ . . . aiiB . . . mtam . . . «■» /A m, IVi i ' *■. ~ »«,'«■ WDii.WB ■■:.•■ • ift V' u 1» ■ 9 .A m4 ^■■■■■■■■•■aiBeaaagia li»8Bs«iK«aasBS«;>:«K«s«»«»asaisasB::aK0Ka;ia « • • • If Jl ^ KH • • • 9m * n» , . Km • M «K4 . • ff::» «:•:■::« *«■:: v:-:** • w::a ^ BN • • • *■« H i w .^ ' m» la ■ I mm !■ Iff 1» r*« »■ ■«» ■ 89 ■ sa «aa BCS KSa ■ ■a aaa ■ a* ■sa fi«a " aaa : ' saa : as:a ?$•• a:<;sr-'" : ?«?;< *•' 0sfi < vie** .' a :*:*»■ J «fvr?-r«»«i ' axc 3 ic^^ft'fsSS ■wawo ; ^^^H5 f?iC ■ ;*!•'<« : .', a::« • • ■ ?:«S3» 3 , . * §»■ n ■ ^;a93« < - >;'!£• a»t •i»09sa ; *-'Jl':; * Bfsa '-' ';J;;S> axa:*:* • ' , ':': S^S f ■ HS * .'i S', • «■»■ • ^ BSB ' , KtStR "5^ Variety of Buttons, Collars and Cuffs M Norwegian Drawn Work Lace work has its possibil- ities as a home work which will make a demand for it in the future. Many of the old patterns will be improved in the style of working them. Instead of the variety stitches will be worked with those poorly made the old new laces which give character to the design and perfection will be our keynote. The question often comes to us, does Har- dinger launder? Like other work, if the maker uses good material and does her work well, it is very serviceable. •^.^ These two handker- chiefs with several others were given in the Ladies' Home Journal in 1893. They are good illustra- tions of needle point and Honiton lace. The origi- nals have been washed many times and still look like new. They can be seen at our office, 44 W est Twenty-second street, New York City. Norwegian Drawn Work 15 mm^m ■ »;»■ mzsam ■ :*:;•:■ •::»■ ■ :•:::■ ■«:•:■ «■■ ■■« • :;::• ■kk« ■ .:::■ ■::«• 0MI The small center piece in this illus- tration is one of the prettiest given in the book. It can be copied with little trouble on mercer- i z e d Hardanger. cloth, which comes for this work, and without the edge can be used as an in- sertion for shirt- waist suits. Lace Edge. This illustration is 28 squares in width and requires 112 threads actual count. It is so plainly illustrated the worked will find no difficulty in getting the design. We have this pattern on a dresser cover worked in blue and as an insertion on cream imported scrim worked in white it is effective for shirtwaist. i6 Norwegian Drawn Work The above design will be appropriate for sideboard covers, or above a hem in vertical strips, for a bed-spread. The fin- ished strip measures on one thread Hardanger linen 7 inches, on the double thread about 10 inches. Nor\veK;ian Drawn Work 17 Table Cover, One Yard Square Insertion and Edge (See illustrations 3 and 4) Norwearian Drawn Work liiseitioii iSce llliistiatioiis Below i The above insertion for dress trimmings, sideboard covers, etc., is effective and durable. First is worked tlie flat stitch, see ilhistration i, then the threads are cut and drawn for the open work, which is plainly shown in small illustrations given below. Each side is finished with a hem-stitched border. The small squares can be scalloped and used for pincushion tops, or in groups of four will make a pretty plate doily. Open-work Square Filled -in Square Norweaian Drawn Work 19 Border Design. This beautiful Ixjrder design is 12 inches wide, around a cover about one yard s(|uare, and is made on Hght yellow Marly cloth, a large open cotton weave, agreeable and easy to work. For the flat stitches Floche in yellow mercerized cotton is used, and white for the darning stitches. The center corner figure must be repeated four times to make one-fourth of this design. The Marly cloth should count to each side 450 threads at least. Norwegian Drawn Work Large Pattern With Corner. Norwegian Drawn Work This handsome bed spread, made from desig'n on opposite page, is worked on coarse white Cong-ress canvas or cream Mariy cloth. If Avorked on the canvas use coarse white mercerized cot- ton on cream Marly cloth. Very noticeable is the little point worked between the squares in the bed-spread. Each repetition of this design counts 120 stitches. The center of the bed-spread can be finished with a square like il- lustration 24, or, if preferred, an oblong piece made from the same design. Norwegian Drawn Work This serviceable insertion pattern is especially etfective worked in all white on a strip of Hardang'er linen 6 inches wide, with white mercerized cotton, is a pretty shirtwaist de- sign. The actual count of pattern in width is 108 threads. Norwegian Drawn Work 23 Enlarged Design of Center Piece given on page 33 24 Norwejjian Drawn Work cA^ 9y§^, Center Piece, Copied From Illustration on Page 20. This exquisite center piece sliows the completed pattern on page 20. The finished piece measures nearly two-thirds of a yard square, made on white Congress cloth. The small center can be left out if desired. The edge is worked over coarse, twisted thread, of which the loops are formed at regu- lar intervals. Norwegian Drawn Work 25 Small Centers or Doilies. The above desi^'iis must lie crosswise on the cloth and are taken from illustration 20. It is necessary to allow one-third more material for these pieces. A finished doily, measuring 9 inches, will require 12 inches of cloth. The designs are given so plainly in former illustrations we do not need to repeat them. Side Board Cover and Doily from Page 27. Norwegian drawn work has a rich eiTect on dark furniture, consecjuently this technic is used to good advantage for side- board covers, dressing and toilet tables, table centers, etc. The decided firm angular lines do not allow plaiting or draping. This sideboard cover is i^ yards long and ^ yard wide. The doily measures 6 inches finished. A good Hardanger linen makes a most serviceable cover. 26 Norwegian Drawn Work Large Designs For Bed Spreads, Curtains, Etc. The enlarged pattern of center piece on page 2^ s h o \v s the corner square of the same, the following smaller points with the star figure, is repro- duced on side- board cover, il- lustration 25. This pattern is so plainly illus- trated it needs little descrip- tion. Large Designs for Bed Spreads, Curtains, etc. (See Pages 25 and 27) Norwegian Drawn Work 27 Square or Oblong Center. The above design, worked on fine white cotton material, is about I yard square. The sides contain five large squares, in- ckiding the cor- n e r s. This Center is worke with ni e r- c e r- ized cotton i n t \v o sizes, the finer for the darning stitches, and in all white is durable and efifective. a any piece made, as it laun- ders well. Open Ground Work Design. This illustration shows part of the design of one of the large scpiares in the above center ])iece, also p r e 1 1 \- with a but ton hole edge for small doilies. It can be used to advantage as a lace edge in com- bination with other stitches. See illustra- ^l^y^ tion above. Open Ground Work Design. Norwegian Drawn Work • I • I am «>:« shc ■«■ |i ^■.■2' "2?. "'■'■ flK« «"« » "2" • ^?f • "Sf!«« . ^^^ ■*' s^-.*2;«.'5S'* ""^ •*« «"« » • .:« •.«««:*:« «UB»« ftr^suHc «•• Insertion For Shirtwaists This insertion can be worked to advantage on any of the finer goods used for the Norwegian drawn work, linen pre- ferred, same as used for the new shirtwaists. As this insertion is about 8 inches wide the cloth should count at least 150 threads at widest parts. The star center on opposite page is used as the center of these medallions. Sofa Pillow With Wide Insertion. Exclusively rich and beautiful is the embroidery on this sofa pillow, for which illustration on opposite page furnishes a part in almost natural size. The material is linen, in white or colors, worked with white mercerized cotton. The ruffle is made from the same linen, about 5 inches wide finished with Norwegian Drawn Work 29 a narrow border, see illustration i. Ilie same border can be used as a finish for the insertion. Wide Insertion. (See Page 28) This handsome insertion, which can be used for bed- spreads, curtains, sofa pillows or as a dress garniture, i:- worked on coarser or finer cloth and will make a wider or nar- rower strip, as desired. On our regular shirtwaist linen it will measure about 10 inches, and including the row of back stitches, needs 188 threads actual count. 30 Norwegian Drawn Work 1 ■:•;« I i H tUiiiAl*itiiAli*ilimiimiiiiilAim«i4 These designs are plainly illustrated on opposite page and need little description. The doilies are worked crosswise on the goods and require a piece of cloth 3^ larger in size than actual count of threads used in pattern. The design given on opposite page is peculiarly adapted to a sideboard cover, if made on white linen, and, with any of the above doilies, will make an acceptable gift. Norwegian Drawn Work- Si 32 Norwegian Drawn Work Center Piece or Table Cover For Dining Room. The above pattern worked on colored coarse weaved goods with colored embroidery cottons, leaving the spaces un- cut and filled in with the flat stitch instead of the darning stitch, is especially suitable and efifective as a cover for a din- ing room table, and should measure about two yards square. The edge can be finished as described in illustration, or one of the pretty fancy stitches can be used in place of the hem-stitch- ing. Worked like the above design on white linen this pattern can be used as a center piece, or as an insertion on a sideboard cover. Norwegian Drawn Work Fancy Center of Col- ored Material. See page 32. Norweg-ian drawn effective work is worked o n colored ma- 33 dark background This cloth meas- ures about 27 in- ches is worked on Java cloth. The pattern allows fre- quent repe- tition. terial as is shown i n the above illus t r a t i o n, on w h i c h the cream embroid- ery stands out in relief from a Center Piece This effective cen- ter piece, measuring abotit 24 inches, is made on cream Con gress can- \ ass, each point c o ti nting 24 threads, for illus. see page 23, measuring less than i}i inches. Each side consists of 15 points, including the two corners. The actual number of Worked on white linen without border this design would be effec- tive for the new style shirtwaist suits. threads used in the em- broidery is 360 and re- quires a piece of canvas counting 400 tlireads square. The button hole edge is work- ed over a coarse twist- ed thread which forms the loop s. The dice, forming tlie )order can be outlined in black. Use mercerized cotton. This design is plainly illus- trated on page 2;^. 34 Norwegian Drawn Work Gittertyl ("GITTER-TULLE.") This word of Danish origin translated (Gitter) mesh, square even mesh, (tulle) light mesh, by us called Fillet-net. The net for this work is nearly two yards wide and can be used to advantage for curtains, bed spreads, dresser covers, etc. Some are making shirt waists of it, but we doubt if it will be very popular for that purpose this season. We recommend the cream or white F'illet-net in preference to the colored net. The center piece given on this page is worked on a square of net measuring 34 inches, this star effect will be used on many of the shirt waist patterns. The only stitch used is the simple darning stitch, which is woven back and forth in each mesh, except the drawn work stitch which is above the hem. _ ^ j^^ffi, - ffflgffii- .j^fca -3^^-B rrcl"^n=;. .i^^fe. -tags, •c^?^^^^^'"^ .tui^su, -(6 Norwegian Drawn Work 35 i»|f3B3a|p3seii^535a^ugiPP^ai,Y;»?yf:^, Sampler of Stitches iiijiii;iifcjai^jii,ii^4^ t#''^'||p^^^(glf«|i'iP Sofa Pillow 36 Norwegian Drawn Work "-'•-■ ?allt?*^--- i aSSmw* >^,,*t»f Pj^,,i- ■■■- CS» «>m>M This illustration is one of the prettiest and first designs imported several years ago. It can be used as an insertion for shirt waists or in detached scjuares the effect is exquisite. We are importing a special net for shirt waists which is more sheer than the net used for home decoration which will be i)n sale some time this spring. Norwegian Drawn Work 37 Centre Piece 1 1 ■ S'ti„ It , 't , It i' 1(1 \- >t' I ills fit. , I . ~in tin " •• nikn " ti: 1 Sideboard Cover 38 Norwegian Drawn Work The illustrations of fillet-net work given on pages 35, 36 and 37 need little description. Many of the stitches given in the sampler are efitectively worked in the spaces. The pattern is outlined with a silk braid with cord on the edge which gives a rich finish to the work These patterns come stamped on the fillet-net. The above illustration is worked by counting the spaces and darning the stitches back and forth with mercerized cotton. Any cross stitch design can be worked with this darn- ing stitch. The above pattern is exquisitively handsome used as a curtain border. The darned stitches are worked on the bias as well as on straight net. Norwegian Drawn Work 39 These collar and cuff sets are one of the popular novelties for the coming season. They are not new as we worked them in white for the Christmas trade. At the present time they are worked in colors, etc., one set is worked all red, others in •t».-j«^'.»Zti»".s. SiS^^''"'- "'Td^"!'.:!!. "J=!s."t!*!v- •^■•.- "•• :' :•- :•■:■■ •■ ■■■ ■:■ .'-<»%- si's* ■-!«'«- -S'-V-r'n- I" - '"""'-!"..." 'ii?ril|h-:5HU two or three shades, browns, blues or other desirable colors. The edge illustrated on left hand corner can be used as an in- sertion for shirtwaists. 40 Norwegian Drawn Work Dresser Cover J^^f^'! LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 0 002 001 405 2 # HEDEBO ^^The Danish Work (peasant work), called Hedebo, to be introduced next season, for Collars, Shirtwaists, etc., will share the laurels already won by Norwegian Drawn Work, the latter of which will be more popular than at present. KINMONTH PRESS, ASE PABK. N. J. CoDMrvatkn Resoincw LiB-Fm^1>peI PhS^Bulbred aSDhTDDEDDD SSaHONOD JO AHY)ian